"An incredible dessert invitation to extend to special summer guests when fresh fruit is at its best and you're feeling a little extravagant. Who could resist the temptation to "mix your own" when it comes to fruit puree, heavy cream, and a choice of liqueurs or brandies?"

To facilitate peeling, place the peaches (or use nectarines) in boiling water for 1 minute. Using a small, sharp knife slit the skin and remove. Then pit and quarter the fruit and place it in a small saucepan with water to cover, sugar, lemon juice, and nutmeg. Simmer until tender, depending on the ripeness of the fruit, about 10 to 15 minutes. Cool. Puree or pass through a sieve and chill.

Serve in chilled bowls or very large parfait glasses. Pass the pitcher of cream or melted ice cream, and cookies, and have on the table a selection of liqueurs and brandies, depending on your taste and pocketbook. I suggest any combination of the following:

creme de banana, cherry brandy, Amaretto, curacao, bourbon, anisette, rum, sherry, coffee liqueur, Tuaca.

Also experiment with the softened ice cream; it need not be vanilla, but should be delicate. The cookies could be any of your favorites, but simple rich ones like macaroons or butter cookies such as Snowy Cardamom Crisps are an unequalled match for this soup.